Canadian Rockies Roadtrip
In late June to early July 2026, I (Jess) went on a bucket list trip I’d been planning for years - a road trip around the Canadian Rockies. It took me months to plan and quite frankly, I nailed it, so here is a run through of the two-week trip for anyone else not sure where to start. It’s a long read because it was a jam-packed trip covering a lot of ground so go and make yourself a cuppa.
Before we go any further…
Firstly, there is so much to see and do in this beautiful part of the world, so by no means is this the only way to do it, but based on mine and my husband’s personalities, likes and what we see value in, it was perfect for us, so of course feel free to research beyond this itinerary!
I think the norm for this type of trip is to fly into one city, say Calgary, and out of another, like Vancouver. Through American Express I had a companion voucher, this is where you book a flight using your Avios and a second person flies for free, however you must fly in and out of the same location, so for this reason alone we did a roundtrip in and out of Vancouver, but honestly I can’t imagine doing it any other way, I’ll explain more on that later - and not just because 2 return flights cost £300 totally…
We chose to go in June/July for a few reasons, the lakes don’t defrost until late May and they’ve been on my bucket list for years, but then, wildfires are more likely in late July and August. We love Autumn and so would have been very keen for a September trip to see the red maples and golden larches but said companion voucher expired before then. Ultimately, it all worked out perfectly for a mix of crisp mountain air and hot sunny days as we ventured around.
Day 1: Vancouver to Whistler
We instantly left Vancouver, knowing we were coming back to it as we wanted to get straight into the mountains and I’d really recco doing this, it means you get straight into the culture without the overwhelm of a big city. Plus, our first drive along the Sea to Sky Highway was so thrilling as the first beautiful views of the trip, and not even because we had our first bear sighting as it crossed the road right in front of us!
It is a beautiful two hour drive out of the city to Whistler alongside the water, and even though this is absolutely doable in one go we thought we’d take a brief stop to take in our first bit of natural beauty - Shannon Falls. It is literally on the route and you just pull off the highway for a short five minute walk to the waterfall viewing point and then can hop back in your car. A quick tip on this, the car park was very busy and we had to wait for a space, however we didn’t have to wait long since it is such a quick and easy view to take in, so do not fear if there isn’t a space when you arrive.
Whistler turned out to be the perfect first day, and not just because we arrived as Canada’s FIFA World Cup Match was being played on big screens in the town. It is a village full of shops and restaurants perfect for mooching, stocking up on supplies and just totally unwinding into the holiday vibe, we were blessed with clear blue skies too. Highlights for us were the farmers market in the park (we were there on Sunday) and our first experience of Chocolats Favoris - an ice cream shop where they dunk your ice cream in melted chocolate and it solidifies into a shell, absolutely unreal and not the last you’ll hear of these on this trip.
Accommodation Recco:Crystal Lodge for a modern room with very comfy bed, super easy parking (for additional expense) and we made use of the hot tub, outdoor pool and sauna.
Day 2: Joffre Lakes & Clearwater
An early 5:30am wake up call to get a Starbucks to go and be one of the first to Joffre Lakes, only an hour’s drive on from Whistler. I was so excited to see these bright blue waters, whilst also trying to not get my hopes up with the high stakes - must book a day-pass, which you can only do two days ahead of your planned visit on the BC Parks website - I would recco setting that 7am alarm as they go instantly!
A short five minute walk from the car park is the Lower Lake, green in colour and on a clear day the reflection in the water is just stunning. The main event is Middle Lake, but the walk to it is entirely uphill on rocky, uneven terrain, it is definitely doable and takes about an hour, but if you are not physically fit or have any issues with balance you will seriously struggle. The view is so rewarding however, and I really do think the tough walk to get to it makes you appreciate it that much more. We were blessed with clear skies which makes the water really sing, in fact as we left the lake, after enjoying it for a good 20 minutes, clouds started to come overhead and the lake completely changed colour.
You can hike 15ish mins on to Upper Lake but by this point, seeing how the water was changing colour anyway, we turned back. After the walk down, and using the pit loos in the car park, we set off on a 3hr drive to a pitstop in Kamloops - with a very quick leg stretch at the Seton Lookout Point an hour into it. Kamloops is a big town, but not one you’d stay overnight in, we just stopped to buy groceries in Walmart and grab some lunch.
Just over an hour on, we arrived in Wells Gray Provincial Park, staying in Clearwater, which is known as the Land of 41 Waterfalls. You’ve got your pick of waterfalls clearly, and we singled out two that were super easy to get to and view - Spahats Falls (above left) where you walk a few minutes to a look out point, and then Triple Decker Falls (above right) where you walk downhill for 10minutes through a well trodden woodland path to the base of the waterfall. At 6pm, we were the only ones down there which was so fun to climb around the rocks.
Day 3: Yellowhead Highway to Jasper
The activity this day was the drive, and not just because it was over 3 hours, I was so excited to drive along the road with Mount Robson towering over us and it really was breathtaking. On this drive you’ll also encounter a 1hr time change as you enter Alberta, proof of how far you’ve travelled!
But maybe that isn’t fair to Jasper where we spent the afternoon and evening. After the long drive we drove straight to Maligne Canyon for a leg stretch along the gushing river, we did the 2.3km Flower Loop from Sixth Bridge where you walk right along the waters. However, it wasn’t particularly floral… devastatingly the entirety of Jasper forest is still wrecked from the 2024 wildfires, the trees are leafless and blackened and it felt almost mystical walking through them.
In Jasper we enjoyed a delicious meal at Jasper Pizza Place (where my sister worked for a season) and shopped around the small town. You definitely wouldn’t need more than an afternoon here - unless it was to try out more eateries of which there are many!
Accommodation Recco:Forest Park Hotel, although one of the furthers out of the town centre with a 20minute walk, this turned out to be one of our favourites of the trip with its modern design, spacious rooms and spa facilities.
Day 4: Icefields Parkway to Banff
There’s no better, or perhaps more intense way, to wake up in the morning than a bit of white water rafting… We booked the Self Drive Sunwapta experience with Jasper Rafting Adventures, a 45min drive from Jasper and was in the right direction for where we were headed. I foolishly agreed to sit in the front row, leaving my ears, eyes and mouth full of ice cold glacial water after an hour, but hey I got the full experience! If like I was, you’re scared of falling out, I really don’t see how you would, we were very well taken care of and had a lot of fun!
Now onto the Icefields Parkway, one of the most beautiful drives you could ever do with a natural wonder to stop at almost every few minutes! So, whilst there are MANY you can do, we chose to just stop at a few given the full-on morning we’d had, plus this was another day where the drive was the activity I had so much fun just looking out the window. Our first stop was Sunwapta Falls (above), a really easy stop with a short walk to the gushing waterfall - which terrifyingly was only 1km from where we got out of our raft!
1.5 hours on it was time for our next ice blue lake, this time to be viewed from above. Peyto Lake has a huge car park which, if you don’t fall into the trap of just queuing and actually drive round the car park you will find a space. It is then a 10minute walk, which is very steep but entirely concrete and smooth, to the viewing platform. However, if you want to enjoy the view and take as many pictures, have a breather on a big rock totally alone, here are some directions for you:
1. When you reach the main viewpoint, take a left. When the railing ends, keep walking down the path and look for a small trail on the right side going into the forest.
2. Follow that path, keeping right as you head slightly downhill for 10minutes
3. Voila! Your own private viewing platform to enjoy for as long as you want in peace!
We originally planned to just drive straight on for the hour to Banff but when you’re presented with a massive glacier in front of you, you pull up with the other cars and RVs and get out to stand in the bracing cold winds and take it all in! Again, a very easy stop, there were also lots of waterfalls along the way you could easily pull up and see, but a combo of rafting and glacier coldness was in our bones at this point and Banff offered warm sunshine and a good meal!
All I had seen online and socials was about how hard it was to get into Banff in the summer and to go first thing in the morning to enjoy it and get a parking space. I chose to follow the advice of heading straight to the Train Station car park on the outskirts of town which is massive and completely free (like most parking on the trip we found), we had zero problems arriving at 4pm and then walked 10 minutes into town, super easy. I know many people spend a few days in Banff, but for the town itself, much like Jasper, you don’t need longer than an afternoon and evening. We ate dinner at The Maple Leaf and would recommend the Sticky Duck Wings!
We then drove 40mins back on ourself to Lake Louise, a place I’d been dreaming about for over a decade…
Day 5: Lake Louise & Moraine Lake
We booked to stay at Lake Louise Inn for its proximity to Lake Louise and thought we’d take full advantage of this with multiple visits to the water’s edge. Before checking in at 8pm, we swung by the lake where it's free to park after 7pm on a little scouting mission, the sun had just set behind the mountain and there were very few people on the boardwalk unlike the middle of the day where it’s a tourist frenzy!
We then set our alarms for 4:30am and returned in time for 5am the following morning, paying $37 to park right at the lakeshore before it filled up (supposedly by 7am), we had flasks of coffee and a blanket and sat right along the water’s edge alongside no more than 30 other people to catch sunrise. It is honestly one of the most magical things I’ve ever seen as the sun starts to light up the snowcapped mountain in front of you. The sun then doesn’t hit the lake until about 8am at that time of year, so we enjoyed an incredibly peaceful walk around the lake, then grabbed a hot to-go breakfast from the Fairmont Chateau before seeing the lake turn its milky blue and heading back to bed.
To visit Moraine Lake you must book a shuttle, you cannot get there any other way, Parks Canada organise a shuttle where you park at the Ski Lodge and then board a bus to either Lake Louise or Moraine Lake, then onto the other and then back. It’s a well-oiled machine allowing you to see both in one trip with free parking, but once more this is a time you need to set a reminder and an alarm for. Back in April I set an alarm to book a time slot on my chosen date and when the clock struck 3pm (UK time) I was instantly 35,000th in the queue… I eventually was successful with an afternoon time slot and paid $30ish dollars for the privilege. If you miss out on this there are local tours you can book onto who are also allowed access to the lakes.
Moraine Lake is a deeper and more vibrant shade of blue than Lake Louise and the best view is from above it, but it wasn’t necessarily the most enjoyable. The best view is from the top of the rockpile which was FULL of people constantly, as well as chipmunks trying their luck at taking people’s food, we spent 10mins there probably, and of course skipped our bus stop at Lake Louise having already had the most blissful morning to ourselves.
As if two lakes wasn’t enough for one day, we then drove on to stay the night at the most incredible hotel Emerald Lake Lodge in Yoho National Park.
Day 6: Emerald Lake > Revelstoke > Nelson
We arrived around 5pm to Emerald Lake shining the most vibrant turquoise in the sunshine, honestly my phone camera could hardly handle the brightness of the lake, it is breathtaking. The lodge is one of the most special places I’ve been, you park offsite and they run a free shuttle back and forth as no cars are allowed on their little island on the lake. We stayed in a lake view cabin with a little balcony looking out onto the water which I enjoyed right up until 10pm when the lake was still glowing, albeit a bit less bright (I remain fascinated by how quickly the colour of all these lakes change with the ever-changing weather of the Rockies). There’s a brilliant restaurant, bar, clubhouse, hot tub and sauna on site and we completely relaxed after such a long and busy day. I was recently asked about spending longer in Banff or coming here and this was such a highlight of the entire trip, do not miss out on this.
In the morning, after a fab breakfast buffet, we joined the queue for canoeing at 9:40am and were one of the first out on the lake when the canoe rental opens at 10am, a massive bucket list moment for me. Many people recommend canoeing here over Lake Louise as it's cheaper (still $100 though) and easier to get a canoe, not that I tried at the other lake but I loved this experience so much I’d agree.
We then set off back into British Columbia, with a time zone change, for a pit stop at the Revelstoke Mountain Resort. We enjoyed a delicious al fresco lunch and then got the gondola up to ride the Mountain Coaster! We pre-booked but you can also purchase tickets on the day, and there are two tracks, one more scenic for scaredy cats like me, and one with sheer drops for lunatics like my husband, both go up to 42km/hr and we both thoroughly enjoyed our rides!
We spent the rest of the day driving a few hours to Nelson where we had booked an AirBnb, catching an inland ferry as a surprise!
Day 7: Nelson, The Kootenays
Another thrilling morning was spent zip lining through the forest and over a canyon at the Kokanee Zip Line where there are 6 ziplines of varying distances and speeds. A fun way to spend the morning before we chilled out at our AirBnb for the afternoon.
Accommodation Recco:This AirBnb was perfect and very reasonably priced with a full kitchen, washing machine for a mid-trip clothes wash, and a sauna and hot tub which we spent the evening in whilst the sun set.
Nelson is a small town full of independent shops and many bars and restaurants, the locals on our ziplining experience recommended Broken Hill BBQ restaurant so we ate there, the brisket sandwich was brilliant.
Day 8: Kelowna
We drove 1hr on a sunny day to spend a bit of time sunbathing on the sandy shore at Christina Lake, one of the warmest lakes in the area where many people were swimming and paddle boarding. It’s a perfect pit stop on a sunny day.
We then carried on for almost three hours to Kelowna, a big city where we watched one of the most thrilling England World Cup matches at Canadian Brewhouse Sports Bar where they pull a horn and let off sirens every time a goal is scored, it was so much fun. We then, having looked up other locations, visited Chocolats Favoris for another chocolate coated ice cream on the beach, before enjoying a scenic walk along the water back to our hotel.
Accommodation Recco:Hotel Zed is a small chain (with two other properties on Vancouver Island) with retro decor and welcoming atmosphere including free rollerskate and bike rental, a hot tub, pool and ping pong! We didn’t spend much time at the hotel, but I would have loved to use more of the facilities, it was such a cool and welcoming vibe.
Day 9: Driving Day to Vancouver Island
Just a mere 7 hours of driving on this day, no biggie, but so worth it to get to the end destination! Vancouver Island is a small island off of Vancouver (shock!) with many staying in Victoria or taking day trips to smaller villages around it, we were headed for Tofino. We booked a BC Ferry in advance which took 2 hours from Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal to Duke Point in Nanaimo.
The drive from Nanaimo to Tofino is three hours but there a few cool stops you can take on the way like the Cheewhat Giant (Canada’s largest tree) or the Hole in the Wall waterfall, but we chose the lesser known Taylor River Rest Area (pictured above), which may sound like a car park with toilets but has a swimming spot that looks like the Caribbean. Only in looks, once more the water is glacial and almost unbearable to swim in which we found out the hard way, but so beautiful to see and cool your feet off in if nothing else! It’s also about half way to Tofino which breaks the journey up nicely.
Day 10 & 11: Tofino - technically not the Rockies!
Before we dive into this beach town, I suggest you check out my IG postabout reading Our Perfect Storm by Carley Fortune which is set in Tofino and showcases a bit of the vibe here. Think rainforests, beaches, epic wildlife, independent shops, non-stop rain one day to clear skies and sunshine the next, it is a place like no other.
Accommodation Recco: Middle Beach Lodge, we stayed in a cabin with a full kitchen, lounge area, bedroom, bathroom and a little deck with chairs overlooking the beach which was perfect. Its a 5min drive into town, there’s a path that takes you straight onto the beach, the breakfast is a bit naff and there aren’t a tonne of amenities but the location more than makes up for it.
On a rainy day in Tofino you should do the Rainforest Trail, as you get a good amount of shelter from the trees, and it's just so atmospheric hearing the rain. There are two loops all on boardwalks, we did both as it was just so cool. We got there about 9am, parked with no problems, but by the time we were leaving the small car park was so busy and traffic was backed up on the main road so maybe factor that in!
On the way back to town you can stop at Chocolate Tofino where there is also a cafe and food joint in a little wooded area made cosy with festoon lighting, and then really you want to get to the main town and mooch about in all the little shops - especially Mermaid Tales Bookshop obvs!
We lucked out with glorious sunshine for our Zodiac tour where we set out onto the sea to look for whales - we saw three grey whales and two humpbacks! We were also treated to the cutest sea otters cuddling on top of the water and an eagle sighting. I had learnt to look at the tops of trees after spotting a few on the drives and I was actually the one responsible for pointing this out to our group… #AttenboroughEatYourHeartOut
Goes without saying, but after a morning out on the water when the sun is still shining then you need to lounge on the beach, where you’ll find the softest sand and enjoy watching surfers catch the waves.
Tofino is a foodie town, and here is everywhere we ate:
The BEAR Bierhaus - unreal beef ragu pasta to warm you up from the rain
Shed - everything at lunch was amazing, we tuna poke bowl, beef tacos and the best parmesan ranch fries
Rhino - coffee shop everyone drinks at, does lots of donuts too
Ombre - mediterranean small plates restaurant, a bit more fancy and would recco booking
Adriana’s - get some yummy focaccia sandwiches or pizza slices to take away and eat on the beach
The Pointe at The Wickaninnish Inn - fine dining restaurant with ocean views, must book in advance and has a smart casual dress code (pictured below)
After such a hectic few days touring around the Rockies, heading over to the island for 3 nights was the perfect way to unwind, there is no pressure, beautiful reading spots and the freshest air, it is well worth the ferry and long drive over.
Day 12 & 13: Vancouver
Probably not super relevant but in case it helps, we actually returned the rental car to the airport straight from the ferry and got an Uber into Vancouver as we figured we wouldn’t need the car over there and hotels with parking were few and far between, and would defo recco if you’re also ending your trip here! The airport is 30mins from Downtown and cost between £20-30 which after getting taxis to London airports felt very reasonable.
We loved the city, and as I mentioned earlier we were really pleased we didn’t start our trip off this way as it could have felt too much after the travelling, but ending it here was perfect - from some last minute shopping to reflecting on our trip as we looked out at the water walking around Stanley Park. We found the city super walkable, even though some of these were long walks (up to an hour) it’s a lot of straight roads with lots going on to take in and enjoy.
Dinner on the beach was a perfect ending too, we got lucky with a front row seat at Cactus Club on the beach as the sun was setting, and then of course we had to get one final Chocolats Favoris and walked over to Gastown for it - again a long walk but so enjoyable, especially as it got darker and the city started to light up.
On this note, just beyond Gastown is Downtown Eastside where there is an Opioid Clinic and many avoid going to this part of town as it feels unsafe. Despite waltzing over that way at 10pm we actually didn’t feel any fear, but I’d recco looking into a hotel away from that area if it might concern you.
Accommodation Recco:We had a very spacious corner room at Sheraton Wall and found the central location really convenient. It was an easy spot for Ubers to drive in and out of too, which I imagine some of the other hotels on busy streets could be more of a struggle.
Final Road Tripping Tips
The trip of a lifetime that has left me pining for the mountains ever since I got home, but I’ll just leave you with a few more tips if you are planning a trip:
There is virtually no phone service on any of the drives, so it is important to start your routes on Google maps before setting off and then you’ll be good
Majority of the long drives were so fun just for the scenery and looking for wildlife - we saw bears, moose, elk, eagles and ospreys just from the car!
The roads were one of our highlights, single lane long winding roads with amazing views
I budgeted £1,000 for petrol since we were driving 3,000km and we spent £200, obviously this is fluctuating all the time but don’t let the driving and petrol costs be a reason not to do this trip!
Make sure to read up on driving rules before heading out, they can vary between provinces too
I had the absolute time of my life, so if you’re considering a trip of your own, feel free to slide into our DMs and ask any questions! Jessie xx
